Thursday, June 18, 2009

Liberty Ridge Climb

LIBERTY RIDGE
June 15-18

This year Josh began his 20th year of mountain climbing as well as 30th year of life. His first peak climb was on Mount Tabeguache in July of 1989. The 5,500-foot Liberty Ridge on Washington's Mount Rainier looked to be a great challenge to commemorate a milestone in Josh's life. Rick Inman and Paul Bjork were eager to give the route a shot (for Paul, a third try), so the team was set. After several months of hard training, we were ready to attempt this classic route. Overall, this was Josh's third trip to the mountain. His first try was unsuccessful in 2001, but was able to summit on a second attempt in June 2007.

"Bowling Alley" on the way to High Camp
This year was particularly dry and stable for the 'early season' on Rainier. However, the nice weather melted out the lower part of the ridge which led to almost impassible rockfall danger. We literally dodged oncoming rocks as we passed through a 1500-foot ramp we called the "Bowling Alley." We reached our high camp at 10,500 feet after a 12 hour climb on June 16th.

High Camp at Thumb Rock

Avalanche on Rainier's Willis Wall
Our summit day, June 17th, began unusually late (10:50 a.m.), but we knew we were climbing into stable weather. The upper 2/3's of the ridge was in great shape, and even included some interesting ice climbing. The Liberty Cap bergshrund was the technical crux of the route at 13,500 feet, and the rest of the route was simply great mountain climbing - 40 to 50 degree snow slopes with several pitches of low angle alpine ice.

Josh on Liberty Ridge


Upper Liberty Ridge

An Alpine Ice Section

Liberty Cap Bergshrund Pitch

We summited Liberty Cap (14,122 feet) at 8:45 p.m. after a nearly 10 hour ascent. We witnessed a gorgeous sunset on top. Because of the late hour, we were forced to camp in windy conditions near the summit at 13,700 feet.

Liberty Cap Summit


The next morning, June 18th, we strolled up to Rainier's main summit at 14,411 feet. The views were spectacular and we had finally reached the highest point on Mount Rainier after nearly 3 days of hard climbing. We descended the Emmons-Winthrop glacier route (Josh's 2007 route) and rested at Camp Schurman before hoofing it all the way back to the 4,400-foot trailhead.

Summit Camp at 13,700 feet Columbia Crest - Summit of Mount Rainier
Emmons-Winthrop Glacier Route from Camp Schurman

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